he Grand March was about to begin.
Gentlemen in their finest tail coats led ladies in lavishly trimmed ball gowns with
ruche and ribbons onto the dance floor.
Dressed in dark blue frock coats with shiny gold buttons, the Philadelphia Brigade Band
played “The Spirit of the North March.” Couples began a slow promenade that quickly turned
into a lively parade as the ladies and gentlemen pranced hand in hand in circular formations,
admiring one another’s finery. The Master of the House explained, “The purpose of the Grand
March is to see what everyone else is wearing.”
At Albright’s first Victorian Fashion Ball, what everyone was wearing was exactly
the point.
This public event, held in the Scholl LifeSports Center, was an evening of living history,
fashion and social graces, as well as the culmination of a labor-intensive project for fashion
students in Paula Trimpey’s Interim course “Advanced Costume Construction.” A committee of
fashion students and the student group Club Vogue organized the event, and Albright’s radio
station WXAC-91 FM sponsored the band.
From researching the construction of the ball gown
to creating a pattern, choosing the fabric and sewing the
garment, students made their own ball gowns in the style
of the Victorian Crinoline period of fashion, 1859-1865.
The entire Victorian era spans 1837 to 1901, when Queen
Victoria ruled England.
Erica Rudzinski ’11, who has been sewing since she was
14, took Trimpey’s class and spent all day, every day of the
three-week Interim session working on her white-striped
chiffon dress with teal lining. Teal knife pleating set off the
neckline and sleeves, and the skirt, which required eight yards of fabric, had three tiers of
ruffles. “It was a little dicey dancing
in that huge skirt,” Rudzinski said, “but it was a lot of fun. I wouldn’t
mind going back in time for a night
just to go to a ball.”
The Victorian Dance Ensemble,
the performance troupe of the Civil
War Dance Foundation, demonstrated
the dances and provided instruction.
Raven Young, a Reading-area artist dressed in a black gown complete
with a wooden coffin purse, said she hadn’t planned on dancing, but
gave it a shot and liked it.
Penn State Berks student Peter Tulay said the opportunity to dress
in Victorian attire was “a dream come true. I love everything about the
Victorian era—the technology, fashions, social mindsets, architecture…
If I could live back then I would,” he said. “But we’d better learn how to
dance,” noted Young with a grin.
Dancing in the mid-Victorian era was much more social and formal
than modern dancing. Dances were done in defined formations, making
it possible for couples to mingle and interact, and it was considered
ill-mannered to dance with the same person more than once. It was
the gentleman’s responsibility to find a partner, and white gloves were
worn so as not to soil the clothing. Once the dance began, each person
honored their partner and their neighbor with a curtsey or bow.
Although Kathleen Peightel ’09 wasn’t in Trimpey’s course, she
seized the opportunity to make a ball gown. “I don’t think I ever in my
wildest dreams thought I would have a chance to wear a ball gown, much less make one,” she said. Peightel’s
gown was light blue with a silver
and champagne leaf print satin
brocade. A bow and gold decorative
leaves embellished the bodice and
shoulders. Underneath she wore a
crinoline, a hoop skirt and the corset
she constructed in last year’s corset
workshop led by Jeff Lieder, costume
director for the Utah Shakespeare
Festival. “It took a long time to get dressed!” she said. But it was worth
it, she added. The evening was “a little bit magical.”
Magical, educational and also interdisciplinary, said Trimpey, assistant
professor of theatre and fashion, who was dressed in her own handcrafted
gown, one of a dozen she has made and worn to various balls.
Trimpey’s aqua silk Chantilly lace gown, lined in silver silk satin, was
topped with a wide boat neckline. It featured a fitted boned bodice with
a point at the center front and was ladder-laced at the back.
“It’s history walking right before your eyes,” Trimpey said. Not only
did the event benefit history, theatre and fashion majors, but “music
students benefitted from hearing a band that formed in 1830 and is
still dedicated to the music of the period. Psychology and sociology
students observed the social interactions and etiquette of the time. It’s
truly interdisciplinary,” she said.
Following a brief break for refreshments and mingling, the Master
of the House called dancers back to the floor for the second hour-long
dance set. This set would begin with a traditional waltz, a dance that
was considered the most contemporary of the time; one you saved for “your sweetheart,” Trimpey said.
But before couples were asked to honor their partners, the Master of
the House reminded everyone that “in 19th century etiquette whenever
someone messes up, it’s always the man’s fault.”